Installation gear-reductions New King Tiger
Installation instructions for CustomRCmodels Gear-reduction's
with 18 tooth output-gear for Tamiya's 1/16 scale NEW King Tiger tank
113:1 overall gear-ratio, tested scale speed 16.8 miles / 26.8 km / hour on-road
and 15.6 miles / 25 km / hour off-road
required tools : 2mm metric allen-wrench , 1/16 inch standard allen-wrench
included , but I highly recommend the use of higher quality tool's ,
the included wrenches are just in case you don't have any , be careful ,
do not over-tide'n these screws .
These screws are stainless-steel ( excepted of the pinion-gear-set-screw's ),
but Alloy strip's real easy ! Use removable thread-lock to secure screw's .
and of course you need your tool's to disassemble the King Tiger , to remove the gear-box's
installation of the right gear-reduction is very simple,
first you need to cut out a piece of the black cover from the gear-box ,
to make room for that larger pinion-gear . see photo's.
use the supplied M 2.5 mm allen-screws to mount the gear-reduction in place of the motor .
mount the 18 tooth pinion by the use of an 1/16 inch allen-wrench NOT Metric !
check the gear-back-lash ,
you can move that gear-reduction a little within the mounting hole's to get the proper setting ,
then mount the motor with the supplied M 2.5 allen-screws,
here you have more play in the mounting-hole's for the motor ,
since it's made to be used with different motor-pinion's ,
set the proper gear-back-lash , done .
see photo's below :
tape the wire's from the machine-gun into the hull , so they don't get tangled up in the pinion-gear !
now to the left gear-box
this is a little more work , since I had only 1 option to mount this left-gear-reduction ,
and not to interfere with the turret-rotation-unit
first disassemble the gear-reduction as shown on the photo
one of the mounting-screws is a M 3 counter-sunk-screw
the motor-mounting-hole's in the gear-box are for M 2.5 screws.
You can now use a 3mm drill to open the hole ,
( just one , the upper one ! in the bottom we are using a M 2.5 screw ! )
or you just can use that screw to cut a thread,
Since the screw is stainless-steel and you are turning it into alloy , it's real easy .
Since you are just cutting a 3mm thread here , you are not really making that hole any bigger ,
in case you want to go back and install just the motor .
The core-bore for a M 3 screw is 2.5 mm , like the motor-mounting-hole's.
But make sure you are turning that screw straight into that motor-mounting-plate
The left gear-reduction is a little wider , see the additional spacer's added to it ,
in case you do not want to use the M 3 counter-sunk-screw .
in that case use the supplied M2.5 allen-screw with nut and secure-washer ,
but I recommend the use of that M3 counter-sunk-screw
now you can install the first ½ of that gear-reduction , as shown in the photos
the supplied M 3 nut and secure-washer is just for added stability,
and also in case you did drill a bigger hole
now install the gear , and the second ½ of the gear-reduction ,
don't forget the spacer's !
install the 18 tooth pinion , with a 1/16 inch allen-wrench !
and check the gear-back-lash
if everything look's okay , you can now install the motor ,
here the same thing , set the proper gear-back-lash
reassemble your King Tiger and you should be ready for the first test-drive with “true-scale-speed”
you may experience less or no chassis-recoil when firing the main-gun .
this results from the added gearing ( more gear-back-lash )
. the chassis-recoil is just an short impulse send to the motor's .
depending how much gear-back-lash your gear-boxes have and now with the added gearing
you will have less chassis recoil , but check also your settings from the MF-unit .
need any help , or comments ,
kind regards and happy “battle”
July 3, 2003